Being asked to review Hotori at The Sanderson genuinely felt like a dream. The pairing of one of the West End’s most iconic hotels, a playground of my mid-20s, with a Japanese yakitori specialist was simply too tempting to resist.
Stepping into The Sanderson’s Long Bar feels like walking into a living mood board. Fashion types chat over cocktails while Fitzrovia’s creative crowd gathers, as it has done for years. For anyone who enjoys a little people-watching, especially those of us who remember the Kate Moss heyday, it’s pure nostalgia. The energy spills into the vast reception space filled with surreal art installations, a reminder of the hotel’s playful history. I am secretly hoping the upcoming refurbishment brings back an updated version of the lip sofa. It still stirs something in me all these years later.
That lively atmosphere flows naturally into the restaurant, allowing you to feel part of the buzz while still being able to hear your guest across the table. I always gravitate towards an open kitchen, and here the dancing flames and drifting aromas make it impossible not to watch.
Hotori, originally based on New Fetter Lane, has built a name for its vibrant yakitori and careful technique, and it is the latest restaurant to take up residency at The Sanderson. Last December the space hosted MasterChef’s Dan Merriman with a modern English tasting menu. For Spring 2026, the mood shifts and guests are transported to Japan instead.
An omakase menu is one of my favourite ways to dine. There’s something so lovely about putting your trust in the chef and allowing them to guide you through their best ingredients and techniques. I always enjoy a culinary journey that lets skill and creativity take centre stage, so choosing the omakase at the Hotori pop-up was an easy decision. Thankfully for my vegetarian guest, who also happens to dislike mushrooms, there’s an à la carte menu too, so everyone can order in a way that suits them.
The £68 omakase menu unfolds beautifully. It begins with delicately brined Japanese pickles that gently wake up the palate, followed by yuzu-infused sea bass that melts in the mouth, seasoned just enough to enhance the fish without overpowering it.
Next comes prawn tempura, sweet and feather-light. The signature Foss Meadow chicken yakitori follows, paired with traditional udon in chicken broth. The noodles have that perfect spring and chew that makes you realise how underwhelming supermarket versions can be. Then comes the standout dish: miso black cod, glossy and rich with umami, yielding at the lightest touch. It is comfort and elegance in one bite.
If a springtime escape with a Japanese twist sounds appealing, Hotori’s pop-up at The Sanderson runs on Fridays and Saturdays throughout spring. It is well worth booking ahead.
Article and some images by @emmiebthere – some images supplied by The Sanderson
