Chris Golds jets into New York to try an out some fine dining in NYC. He found a transatlantic feast that was worth every air-mile!
Restaurants often fall into just a few categories: The ones you stumble into because you are hungry, others you book in advance because of recommendations or you’ve eaten there before, and finally there are those places you would cross an ocean for. 53 in New York is a ‘get me on that plane I need to try it NOW’ restaurant. This was fine dining in NYC.
Walking through its doors in the heart of Midtown Manhattan I was immediately envious of the New Yorkers for whom this spot was just a hop, skip or a yellow cab ride away. Tucked just off Fifth Avenue, as close as can be to the Museum of Modern Art (MoMA), this restaurant is art all on its own. Beautiful curved ceilings, a bar that disappears into the distance, warm lighting bouncing off honey-coloured wood, and a stunning sculptural staircase. It looks like a film set. So it is no wonder it plays a staring role in the ‘Sex and the City’ spin off ‘And Just Like That’ for one of the girls infamous cocktail sessions. The girls though made a big mistake – in the scene we saw they didn’t eat. Thankfully, we did!
The menu is a blend of Asian flavours filtered through a fine dining lens. Each dish has been tested until it’s as good as it can be. We started with the Eel Club. Served on a bed of hot stones it already looks incredible. Not one to immediately go for eel I always think it is fun to try something that crosses into the unusual when you can. It was a naughty, decadent bite that pairs foie gras with sweet-tart cherry. It was so good it made me and my friend pause mid-conversation just to savour what’s happening as we ate. Rich, smoky, and fresh.
You also must try the the Crispy Wonton. A golden shell filled with shrimp and chicken, draped in sweet chili sauce. Light yet indulgent, each bite had a satisfying crunch. The warm, savoury filling played beautifully with the sauce’s tangy heat. Frankly, it was gone all too quickly, which is always the best kind of compliment.
For mains, we ordered the Beef Tenderloin and the Black Cod, and I can honestly say we’d have been happy with either as the title star of the meal. The tenderloin was a masterclass. Its buttery-soft meat was wrapped in the subtle warmth of black peppercorn, with tender leeks providing a gentle vegetable sweetness.
The black cod, though, may have stolen the evening and deserves top billing. It arrives in a searingly hot clay pot that the waiter mixed at our table. Talk about drama on Broadway.
It is always interesting to see who has picked a restaurant to eat in. The crowd was a mix of perfectly dressed locals, visiting art lovers fresh from MoMA, and business diners who know the city’s restaurant scene like the back of their hand. A perfect spot for a business lunch it seems. Despite the elegance of the surroundings, the energy in the room was warm and relaxed. I feel you could come here for a celebration, a date, or even a solo meal at the bar and feel completely at ease. A great example of what you want from fine dining in NYC.
By the time dessert menus appeared, we were so happily full that we promised ourselves “just one to share”. Naturally, we ordered two. Both were delicate, inventive, and the perfect sweet notes to finish on.
Stepping back out into the hum of Midtown, we found ourselves already talking about what we’d order next time. Because there will be a next time. 53 is already, for me, the sort of restaurant that deserves repeat visits.
Was it worth crossing the Atlantic for? Absolutely. In a city where the dining scene changes by the week, 53 feels like the kind of place that will still be here years from now. It is a confident space serving dishes that are both rooted in tradition but also ready to push the boundaries of fine dining in NYC.
If you’re in New York and want a meal that combines artistry, hospitality, and flavour, you’ll find 53 just off Fifth Avenue, under those soaring ceilings, at a table where you’ll be looked after as if you’ve come home. Even if, like us, home is an ocean away.
Review and pictures by Chris Golds with additional photographs from 53.
